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Saturday, June 14, 2025

The Sun Bowl

 

The Sun Bowl was born out of dust and sunshine, like so much else in El Paso. It began not as a stadium but as a festival—a way to bring joy to a border town grappling with the lean years of the Great Depression. In 1935, the first Sun Bowl football game was held on a high school field as part of a broader winter carnival meant to draw in visitors and lighten hearts. It worked. The game stuck. And the name, “Sun Bowl,” fit so well it felt as if it had been waiting in the desert all along.

By 1938, the stadium itself took shape—carved, almost literally, into the side of the Franklin Mountains. The original bowl seated just 15,000 people, a modest cradle for a growing tradition. But its setting was—and remains—singular. There are few stadiums in the world where you can watch a football game with a mountain rising behind one end zone and the sun setting behind the other. The rock is red, the light golden, the air dry and crisp. It feels ancient and elemental, as if sport here becomes a ritual of its own.

The Sun Bowl is the second-oldest college football bowl game in the country, trailing only the Rose Bowl. But unlike its more famous cousin in Pasadena, the Sun Bowl never put on airs. It belongs to the people. Ticket prices have remained reasonable. The atmosphere is more block party than blue blood. It’s a celebration of grit over glamour. Over the years, it has hosted big names and future legends—Barry Sanders, Tony Dorsett, and LaDainian Tomlinson have all left cleat marks on its field—but it has never lost the feeling that you’re watching something local, something with dirt under its fingernails.

In 1963, the stadium was rebuilt in its current form—a larger, concrete version of the original, still nestled in the mountain's embrace. That same year, President John F. Kennedy was scheduled to visit. He was assassinated in Dallas just a week before the trip, but the preparations for his visit had already transformed the stadium and the surrounding roads, giving it a new status and national visibility.

Architecturally, the Sun Bowl mirrors the rugged landscape. It doesn’t fight the mountain—it yields to it. The seating descends in tiers like an ancient amphitheater, and the stadium lacks the overbuilt bravado of modern arenas. There are no retractable roofs or jumbotrons the size of buildings. What it offers instead is context: a game played where the desert meets the sky, where the crowd rises with the rocks, and where time seems to stretch with the horizon.

Today, the Sun Bowl is more than a game or a stadium. It is a symbol of endurance—of tradition kept not through money but memory. The annual bowl game, still played here, marks a celebration not just of football but of place. And in a city defined by borders—national, linguistic, cultural—the Sun Bowl offers something stable, something shared. A ritual of return.

People come for the game. But they remember the light. The way it falls on stone and steel and skin. The way, for a few hours each winter, the sun itself seems to pause to watch.